cements, aquarium



cements, aquarium defined in 1909 year

cements, aquarium - Cements, Aquarium;
cements, aquarium - This term has been applied to various waterproof cements which have been used for joining the sides, ends, etc., of tanks for holding water for various purposes. The following are some of the best.
  1. Take of finely powdered litharge, fine, white, dry sand, and plaster-of-Paris, each 3 parts, by measure; finely pulverized resin, 1 part. Mix thoroughly and make into a paste with boiled linseed-oil to which dryer has been added. Beat the mixture well, and let it stand 4 or 5 hours before using it. After it has stood for 15 hours, however, it loses its strength. When well made, of good materials, this cement will unite glass and iron so firmly that the glass will often split in its own sub stance, rather than part from the cement. Glass cemented into its frame with this cement is good for either salt or fresh water. It has been used at the Zoological Gardens, London, with great success. It might be useful for stopping leaks in roofs and other situations.
  2. A highly recommended cement is made by melting together, in an iron pan, 2 parts common pitch and 1 part gutta-percha, and stirring them well together until thoroughly incorporated, and then pouring the liquid into cold water. When cold, it is black, solid, and elastic; but it softens with heat, and may be used as a soft paste, or in the liquid state, as is most suitable. It does not harden and crack, and answers an excellent purpose in cementing metal, glass, porcelain, ivory, etc. It may be used instead of putty for glazing windows.
  3. Red lead, 3 parts; litharge, 1 part; made into a paste or putty with raw linseed-oil.
  4. A cement which gradually hardens to a strong consistence may be made by mixing 20 parts of clean river sand, 2 of litharge, and 1 of quicklime, into a thin putty with linseed-oil. When this cement is applied to mend broken pieces of stone, as steps of stairs, it acquires, after some time, a stony hardness, and unites the parts with great firmness.
  5. It is said that a cement of great adhesiveness may be made by mixing 6 parts of powdered graphite with three of slaked lime, 8 of sulphate of baryta, and 7 of linseed-oil varnish. The mixture must be stirred to uniform consistency.
  6. ½ lb. best white lead, ground in oil; ½ lb. red-lead, dry; ½ lb. litharge, dry; the two last kneaded into the first. You have now 1½ lb. of the best putty for resisting water. It will soon become hard and continue so. The glass should be bedded in it, and when neatly finished, put away for a fortnight; then varnish with shellac, dissolved in methylated spirits - say 1½ oz. to half a gill - put into a bottle and shaken, will be ready in an hour. It may be coloured, if need be, with a little vermilion. One coat, wherever there is any putty or metal exposed, will be sufficient, and will dry in a few minutes. Your tank will never leak after this if the frame and glass are strong.
  7. Mix boiled linseed-oil, litharge, red and white lead together, using white lead in the largest proportion, spread on flannel, and place on the joints.
  8. A solution of 8 oz. glue to 1 oz. of Venice turpentine; boil together, agitating all the time, until the mixture becomes as complete as possible; the joints to be cemented to be kept together for 48 hours if required.
  9. Take ½ gill of gold size, 2 gills of red-lead, 1½ gill of litharge, and sufficient silver sand to make it a thick paste for use. This mixture sets in about two days.
  10. Stockholm tar and red-lead dries quickly and hard, after having been mixed to the consistency of butter. Good for almost anything except where great heat is used.
  11. Zinc white 2 parts, copal varnish 1 part.
  12. Common resin 8 parts, calcined plaster 1 part. Melt and incorporate. Add boiled oil 1 part. Apply warm.
  13. An excellent cement for glass recommended in a German scientific journal is composed of 5 kilo, of hydraulic lime, 0.3 kilo, of tar, 0.3 kilo, of resin, 1 kilo, of horn water (the decoction resulting from boiling horn in water and decanting the latter). The materials are mixed and boiled, and after cooling, the putty is ready for use. This may be used for cementing the cracks in reservoirs or other vessels for holding water, and is said to be equally good for glass, wood, and metal.


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