engravings cleansing



engravings cleansing defined in 1909 year

engravings cleansing - Engravings cleansing;
engravings cleansing -
  1. Presuming these to be mounted, proceed in the following manner. Cut a stale loaf in half, with a perfectly clean knife; pare the crust away from the edges. Place the engravings on a flat table, and rubbing the surface with the fresh-cut bread, in circular sweeps, lightly but firmly performed, will remove all superficial markings. Soak the prints for a short time in a dilute solution of hydrochloric acid, say 1 part acid to a 100 of water, and then remove them into a vessel containing a sufficient quantity of clear chloride of lime-water to cover them. Leave them here until bleached to the desired point. Remove, rinse well by allowing to stand an hour in a pan in which a constant stream of water is allowed to flow, and finally dry off by spreading on clean cloths. Perhaps the engraving may afterwards require ironing between two sheets of clean paper.
  2. Put the engraving on a smooth board, cover it thinly with common salt finely pounded; squeeze lemon-juice upon the salt so as to dissolve a considerable proportion of it; elevate one end of the board, so that it may form an angle of about 45° or 50° with the horizon. Pour on the engraving boiling water from a tea-kettle until the salt and lemon-juice be all washed off; the engraving will then be perfectly clean, and free from stains. It must be dried on the board, or some smooth surface, gradually. If dried by the fire or the sun it will be tinged with a yellow colour.
  3. Hydrochloric acid, oxalic acid, or eau de Javelle may be employed, weakened by water. After the leaves (if it be a book) have by this means been whitened, they must be bathed again in a solution of sulphate of soda, which will remove all the chlorine, and leave the leaves white and clean. They will, however, have lost all firmness of texture, owing to the removal of the size from the paper. It will, therefore, be advisable to give a bath of gelatine and alum, made with boiling water, to which may be added a little tobacco, or any other simple substance to restore the tint of the now too white paper.
  4. Immerse each mildewed sheet separately in a solution made in the proportions of ½ lb. chloride of lime to a pint of water. Let it stand, with frequent stirring, for 24 hours, and then strain through muslin, and finally add 1 qt. water. Mildew and other stains will be found to disappear very quickly, and the sheets must then be passed separately through clear water, or the chloride of lime, if left in the paper, will cause it to rot. Old prints, engravings, and every description of printed matter may be successfully treated in the same manner.
  5. "I have in my time cleaned many hundreds. The plan which I adopt is as follows: I place them, one or two at a time, in a shallow dish, and pour water over them until they are completely soaked or saturated with it. I then carefully pour off the water, and pour on to the prints a solution of chloride of lime (1 part liquor calcis chloratae, to 39 parts of water). As a general rule, the stains disappear as if by magic, but occasionally they are obstinate". When that is the case, I pour on the spot pure liquor calcis chlorates, and if that does not succeed, I add a little dilute nitre-muriatic acid. I have never had a print which has not succumbed to this treatment - in fact, as a rule they become too white. As soon as they are clean they must be carefully washed with successive portions of water until j the whole of the chlorine is got rid of. They should then be placed in a very weak solution of isinglass or glue, and many collectors colour this solution with coffee-grounds, etc., to give a yellow tint to the print. They should be dried between folds of blotting-paper, either in a press or under a heavy book, and finally ironed with an ordinary flat-iron to restore the gloss; placing clean paper between the iron and the print. Grease stains are much more difficult. I find benzine best. Small grease spots may be removed by powdered French chalk being placed over them, a piece of clean blotting-paper over the chalk, and a hot iron over that." (F. Andrews.)
  6. Mildew often arises from the paste used to attach the print. Take a solution of alum of medium strength and brush on back and face of the engraving 2 or 3 coats, then make the frame air-tight by pasting a strip of paper all round the inside of glass, leaving about ½ in. overlapping (taking care not to paste the paper on the glass, so as to be seen from the front), then place your glass in frame, take the overlapping piece and paste to side of rebate; place your picture in position, spring backboard in, and then place a sheet of strong paper (brown) on the table, damp it, and paste round back of frame, lay it on to the paper, leave to dry, cut level. If this does not answer, there will be no help for it, but dust off as the mould accumulates. Do not brush on surface with the alum if the engraving is coloured, but several coats on the back.
  7. A plan recommended by Wm. Brooks is to get a dish or china tray a little larger than the engraving to be operated upon; if smaller, there is a great risk of tearing and damaging the engraving. The bleaching agent used is Holmes' ozone bleach. The strength preferred is 1 part bleach to 10 of water, well shaken up before pouring into the dish. A much stronger solution can be used (say 1 in 5), but the weaker it is, the easier is its removal from the paper afterwards. The engraving is immersed in the solution face upwards, avoiding bubbles. The only caution to be observed is that the sodden engraving is somewhat rotten, and needs careful handling. If the engraving be only slightly stained, ½ hour will suffice to clean it, but if quite brown it may require 4 hours. After all the stains are removed, and the paper has regained its whiteness, pour the solution back into the bottle, as it can be reused till it becomes discoloured; fill up the dish with water, changing frequently for about 3 hours, or place it in running water. When the engraving is sufficiently washed, it can be taken out, blotted off, and hung up to dry. When quite dry, it may be ironed on the back with a warm flat iron, which must not be too hot.
  8. If the engravings are very dirty, take two parts of common salt and one part common soda, and pound them together until very fine. Lay the engraving on a board, and fasten it with drawing pins and then spread the mixture dry equally over the surface to be cleaned. Moisten the whole with warm water and a little lemon-juice, and, after it has remained about a minute, or even less, tilt the board up on its end, and pour over it a kettleful of boiling water, being careful to remove all the mixture, and avoid rubbing. If the engraving is not very dirty, the less soda used the better, as it has a tendency to give the engraving a yellow hue.


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