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textile fabrics cleansing
Значение термина textile fabrics cleansing в knolik
textile fabrics cleansing - Textile Fabrics cleansing
textile fabrics cleansing - Cleaning and scouring are, with dyers, divided into "English" and "French." The reason of these two names does not appear, as one method is as much practised by each of the two nations as the other. That known as the English method consists in scouring and washing the article to be cleaned, with a strong solution of soap, or soap and pearlash, and afterwards well rinsing it in pure water. This is the only thorough method of cleaning, and should always be adopted when the fabric is much soiled and dirty. For cleaning carpets and hearth-rugs, the English method is divided into thorough cleaning and dry cleaning. The difference between these two consists more in the manner of carrying out the several operations than in the processes themselves. In dry cleaning, when once the operation has been commenced it must be continued until the fabric - carpet or rug - is as dry as it can be got by rubbing with dry cloths; and care must also be taken that the liquor does not soak through and wet the back. In thorough cleaning, the carpet is saturated with the soap liquor. French cleaning is done with camphine, and is especially applicable for silks or satins which are not much soiled; as, if used with care and despatch, it will not injure the most delicate colours.
Cleaning with Benzine
Scouring with benzine has proved to be one of the best methods, since the end is accomplished without shrinkage or injurious effect upon the colour or finish, so that the garments need not be taken apart, nor lace or velvet trimmings be taken off, while with men's clothing it is not noticeable that they have been washed. The articles, freed from dust and dirt by beating them while dry, are thoroughly moistened with benzine in a tinned-copper or stoneware vessel, and well squeezed in it with the hands; silk pieces, ribbons, and heavier portions that may require it being brushed well on a zinc-covered table supplied with a tube beneath for re-collecting the benzine. The deepest stains are marked and treated more thoroughly. The articles are similarly treated in a second bath of benzine, and then carefully dried in a centrifugal machine for 10 to 15 minutes, the benzine being re-collected in a vessel beneath. On removal from it they are smoothed out and hung in a warm drying-room, with access of air. It will require 10 to 12 hours after they are dry to remove the odour completely. Since benzine acts principally upon fatty matter, stains of street mud, meal, etc., may remain, and must be removed by gently rubbing with a soft sponge dipped in cold water to which a little alcohol has been added, and then drying with a soft.silk cloth. Sugar, champagne, and egg stains are also removed with cold water, and the colour is brought up again with a little acetic acid and alcohol in water, the spots being well rubbed out. Blood spots are treated similarly. In all these cases the formation of marginal stains around the spots must be prevented by thorough use of the soft sponge and soft silk cloth. An article that still retains decided stains is brushed with a cold decoction of soap-bark, to which some alcohol has been added, and is then rapidly passed through water, and then through water slightly acidulated with acetic acid, and dried rapidly. Kid gloves are well rubbed with the hands, separately, in benzine, and each finger well rubbed on a stretcher with a rag, and after being blown out are hung up to dry. Articles treated with benzine need but little subsequent finishing, and this may be accomplished by applying a solution of gum arable in water, and a little alcohol, uniformly with a rag, and ironing. Portions of coats that have been taken apart need simply to be stretched and moistened uniformly with alcohol, and allowed to dry rapidly. Heavy cloth, velvets, etc., after being well steamed, are treated on the wrong side with so little dressing (best of tragacanth) that it does not go through, and are then placed on the finishing frame or warm drum. White furs and angora tassels are passed immediately from the benzine through pulverised chalk, and allowed to dry, and are then beaten out, when the leather will remain elastic and the fur look well. Benzine that has become turbid by use may be purified by stirring 10 drops of oil of vitriol thoroughly into about 2 bucketfuls of it, and allowing it to settle. The operation must, of course, not be conducted near the lamp or fire, on account of the combustibility of benzine.Apparatus
Board required for cleaning with Camphine. - The scouring board for French cleaning ought to be 6 ft. long and 3 ft. wide, and should be made of 1-in. American pine, free from splits and knots, and planed very smooth and level. One side of this board is covered with green or drab baize, stretched very tight and smooth, and fastened to the edges by tinned-tacks. Besides this board will be required 3 silk-scouring brushes, of different degrees of hardness - these should be bought of a dyers' brush-maker; a large sponge, some clean pieces of flannel, and some clean India-cotton cloths and sheets.Camphine is a variety of spirits of.turpentine, and is obtained from the Pinus australis of the Southern States of America. It is sold in sealed tin boxes or cans, containing 1 qt., 2 qt., or 1 gal. each, and can be obtained at almost any oil shop or drysalter's. When it is too dirty for further use, it is taken back to the shop at which it was purchased and exchanged for clean; one pint of clean camphine being given for each quart of that which is dirty.
Common Sour is prepared by stirring into clean water sufficient oil of vitriol to make it taste sharp. The vitriol is to be bought at a drysalter's, not at a chemist's.
Textile Fabrics Drying
Dresses, and all coloured fabrics, should always be dried in the shade, and never in the sunshine; for the best colours are sure to fade, if they are exposed to the glare of the sun, and more especially will they do so when wet.Frame for finishing Silks, etc
This consists of a frame, made generally of oak and iron, on which the silks are stretched before sizing; and is so constructed that a pan containing burning charcoal may be run backwards and forwards under the silk to dry it.French Board, for finishing Silks, etc
Have a deal board, about 4 ft. 6 in. long, 2 ft. wide, and 1 in. thick. Cover this board loosely with fine green or drab baize, well tacked to the edges of the board, and then stuff it with wool from both sides, until it is very tight and smooth. When stuffed, it should be slightly raised along the centre of its length and slope off towards each side. To use this board, take a width of the silk or satin which has been cleaned, lay it flat and smooth on the baize, and then sponge it carefully all over with a mixture of size and water. When this has been done, pin down first one end and then the other, and also the two sides. The silk is to be well stretched while being pinned, and the pins are to be put in about 1 in. apart. Rub the face of the silk once more with a damp sponge, and then dry it before a clear fire. When dry, unpin and take it off the ) board, and it is finished.Hot Stove
A hot-stove room is the best place in which to dry work which has been cleaned with camphine; and the hotter the room is the sooner will the smell of the camphine be expelled from the fabrics.Irons
The best kind of iron to use for ironing dresses, ribbons, etc., is a box iron, on account of its cleanliness.Pegs are pieces of wood, firmly fastened into the walls of the dye-house, at a height of 6 ft. from the floor, and projecting from the wall about 18 in., and are placed at intervals of about 2 ft. Articles which have been cleaned or dyed are put on these pegs to drain. When cleaning curtains, dresses, or other similar articles, the kettle or tub is always stood under one of these pegs. For domestic use, a plain deal horse, made like a towel-horse, may be substituted for these pegs.
Puncher
This instrument is used for beating or punching those articles which are too heavy to be taken in the hands and rubbed. It consists of a rather heavy mallet-like block of hard wood, fixed to a long tapering handle.Size for Coloured Sonnets
Break up 1 lb. of the best glue, put it into a vessel with 4 qt. of cold water, and let it soak for not less than 12 hours. Then pour it, water and all, into a saucepan, and put it over the fire to dissolve. Keep it well stirred, and be careful not to let it boil. When it is all well melted, strain it into an earthenware pan, and use it while it is scalding hot. The bonnets as they are taken out of this size must be sponged as dry as possible, and the shape regulated, and then hung up to dry. This quantity is sufficient for 12 bonnets.Soap
The best kind of soap to use is Feild's oil soap. This kind has no unpleasant smell, and does not congeal after being dissolved. Mottled soap is the next best kind, but it requires to be used while warm to get it well into the work. The great drawback to its use is, that after being dissolved, if it is allowed to cool it congeals, and therefore it is not suitable for cold scouring and cleaning. Soft-soap, which is made from fish-oil, is not fit for general use, on account of the fishy smell remaining in the work.Starch
Mix a quartern of the best flour with cold water, and when it is well mixed pour on it two pails of scalding water, and put into it 2 oz. of beeswax. Now set it to swim in a copper of boiling water for ½ hour, and stir it occasionally. Take it out of the copper and strain it into a clean vessel, and when cool it is ready for use. This is for starching articles which are to be friction-calendered or glazed. The best starch for dresses, and for all domestic uses, is the Glenfield starch.To Handle is to pass the work from one hand to the other, by the selvage, keeping it under the liquor all the time.
To Sheet-up. - To rub dry with sheets.
Water. - All water used for cleaning or scouring, whether hot or cold, should be quite pure and clean.
Ancient Tapestry cleansing
Dissolve a bar of soap in 1 gal. boiling water; when cold put 1 qt. of this dissolved soap into 1 gal. cold water. Have ready at hand some pieces of soft flannel, a soft brush, a piece of washleather, and some clean, dry sheets. First well brush with a hard, long-haired clothes-brush, taking care to remove all the dust from the corners; for this latter purpose it is better to use a small pointed brush and a pair of bellows. If the tapestry is on the wall, begin to clean it at the top, but do not clean more than 1 sq. yd. at a time. Dip a piece of flannel into the soap liquor, squeeze it out gently, and well rub it into the tapestry to make it lather, and well brush with a soft brush. Then wring the flannel out of the soap liquor, and dry the square with the soapy flannel and the washleather, and afterwards dry with the sheets. The tapestry is to be dried with the soap in it, for on no account must it be rinsed. Dissolve 4 oz. tartaric acid in a pint of boiling water, and put it into a pan containing 2 gal. cold water. Dip a clean sponge into this acid water, squeeze it, and then well rub it into the spot you have just cleaned and dried. When this has been done, it must be again well dried with the sheets before being left. And so proceed, 1 sq. yd. at a time, until the whole is cleaned. The soap liquor must be thrown away, and a fresh lot mixed as often as it becomes dirty. When the tapestry has all been cleaned, and it is quite dry, take a lump of pipeclay and well rub it into it, and then brush it with a clean clothes-brush. This last process takes out the soap and spirits, and also brightens the colours. Keep a good fire in the room while you are cleaning the tapestry.Carpets
All carpets and hearthrugs, whether intended for dry or thorough cleaning, must first be well beaten, and swept or brushed with a hard broom. A carpet, to be properly beaten, should be hung on a stout line, the wrong side outwards, and well beaten by two or more persons, according to its size, some standing on one side and some on the other. The sticks used should be pliable, and well covered at the ends with cloth in the form of a knot in order to prevent the carpet being torn or the seams split by the sharp ends of the sticks. After being thoroughly beaten on the wrong side, the carpet should be turned and treated in the same manner on the right side.Dry Cleaning
Have ready a number of dry coarse cotton or linen cloths, some coarse flannels, and one or more large pieces of coarse sponge; two or more hard scrubbing or scouring brushes, some large tubs or pans, and pails, and also a plentiful supply of both hot and cold water.First take out all grease spots; this may be effected in several ways. Well rub the spot with a piece of hard soap, and wash out with a brush and cold water, and well dry each spot before leaving it.
Or use, instead of the soap, a mixture of fullers' earth, gall, and water, well rinsing and drying each spot as before. When this has been done, the carpet may be cleaned by one of the three following methods:
- To Dry Clean with Soap Liquor. - Cut up a bar of soap and dissolve it over a fire in 2 gal. water. Put 2 qt. of this dissolved soap into a pail of warm water. Dip a scrubbing brush, into this soap liquor, and scour with it about 1 sq. yd. of the carpet; be careful not to let the liquor soak through to the back. When this piece is thoroughly cleaned, rub the soap well out of it by means of a coarse flannel or sponge, sucking up all the wet and dirt made by the brush; rinse the flannel or sponge frequently in warm water. Now take a clean sponge and dip it into a pail of common sour, squeeze it out, and then rub the sour well into the part just cleaned and rinsed. Rub as dry as possible with clean coarse cotton or linen cloths before proceeding with the cleaning. The whole carpet is to be cleaned, spirited, and dried in the same manner, a square yard at a time.
- To Clean with Gall. - Put a bag of very fresh bullocks' gall into a pail containing 2 gal. cold water, with 4 oz. pearlash dissolved in it, and well mix it either with a stick or your hands. Have ready, besides this, 2 pails cold water, a large sponge, a couple of flannels, and some dry coarse cloths. Dip the brush into the gall and water, and scrub the carpet, a square yard at a time, as quickly and as carefully as possible. Rinse, and suck up the gall and dirt with a large flannel or sponge, which is to be frequently rinsed in the pails of cold water. Well dry with cloths before beginning a second square.
By adopting this simple process, any carpet, whatever its size, may easily be cleaned on the floor; the process is especially useful when the carpet is not very dirty, or when it contains delicate colours, as the gall cannot possibly injure them. The only objection to this method is that when cleaned with gall there is often a disagreeable smell left in the carpet; but if the gall be obtained from a fresh killed bullock, and the carpet, after cleaning, be hung for a few hours in a current of fresh air, the whole of this smell will go off. - To Clean with Ammonia. - Dissolve in a small pan 4 oz. pearlash in hot water, and mix with it 1 gal. ammonia, which must be obtained from a drysalter, not from a chemist. Dip a sponge or coarse flannel into the ammonia, take it out rather wet, and well rub it into the carpet, then dip the scouring brush into the liquor and well scour the part already sponged as quickly as possible. The dirt and ammonia must then be sucked up in the sponge or flannel, and the part well dried with flannels and cloths before proceeding with the next. Each square yard will take about 20 minutes to clean and dry thoroughly.
In dry cleaning, special care must be taken not to allow the liquor to soak to the back of the carpet or rug; and also that, before commencing, the floor or board on which the operation is conducted, is perfectly dry. A good fire should also be kept in the room during the whole time, as much of the success of the operation depends on rapid drying.
Thorough cleaning.
- Lay the carpet on a stone floor, having a fall of about 6 in., so that the soap and water may drain off as used, and well scour with a long-handled scouring brush, using the dissolved soap liquor in the manner described in the first process for dry cleaning. When well scoured all over, scour out the soap and dirt with plenty of cold water, fold and lift on to pegs to drain. While the carpet is draining, sweep and well rinse the flags; and then lay down the carpet, and well rinse and scour it a second time with plenty of cold water. Refold and hang on the pegs to drain, and again well rinse and sweep the flags. This must be repeated until all the soap and dirt have been got out of the carpet; it must then be hung on the pegs, and the floor once more swept and rinsed. Have a tub or other vessel containing 12 pails cold water, and stir into it ¼ pint oil of vitriol; spread the carpet evenly on the floor, and, with a pail, pour this sour carefully all over the carpet, and well work it in with a carpet broom. This, which is a very important process in carpet cleaning, must be performed with care and attention to the colours, especially when there are greens and blues. When done, fold up the carpet very smoothly and put it on the pegs to drain, and afterwards dry as quickly as possible, either in a hot room or, on a dry day, in the open air.
- Have a board 3 ft. wide and 12 ft. long, so that two persons can work at it at the same time. Place this board on trestles, or horses, 3 ft. high, and on the ground underneath it place other boards, on which to drop the carpet as the scouring progresses. Place the carpet smoothly on. the scouring board, face upwards, and well scour with hand-scouring brushes, using the soap liquor as before. When this length has been scoured, pull the carpet towards you, and let it drop smoothly on to the boards at your feet, and then scour the second width in the same manner; and so proceed until the whole carpet has been scoured. Then fold it up and put it on the pegs to drain, and clean away all the soap and dirt from the boards and floor. Place the carpet on the scouring board as at first, and well scour out the soap and dirt with plenty of cold water; fold up the carpet and put it on the pegs to drain, and again rinse the boards and floor; and so continue until all the dirt and soap have been got out of the carpet. Then well clean the scouring board, the. boards at your feet, and all places about them. Put the carpet once more on the scouring board and finish with the sour as directed for the first method, well scouring it in breadth by breadth. Drain and dry as before. Carpets cleaned in this manner will look and wear as well as when they were new.
- First take out all the grease spots with a mixture of fullers' earth and gall. Dissolve 1 lb. pearlash in boiling water, put it into a tub with 6 pails of cold water, and then well mix into it 2 large gall bags, which should be very fresh; this will be sufficient to clean a carpet containing about 30 sq. yd. Spread the carpet either on the flags or on the scouring board, and use this preparation in exactly the same manner as you would the dissolved soap liquor; scouring, rinsing, spiriting, and drying the carpet just the same.
Cloth cleansing
Cloth trimmings often become soiled, and unless cleaned, the appearance is impaired. Benzine and naphtha are used with success for this purpose upon grease spots, but when there is no grease, the materials fail, and are likely to produce bad results, owing to the oil that is contained in them. To remove the oil place a quantity of benzine in a bottle and drop into it a little oxalic acid; this will carry with it to the bottom of the glass all the oil remaining in the benzine, leaving the greater part perfectly pure. After standing for an hour or two, carefully pour off the clear fluid on the top into another bottle, and it will be ready for use.Curtains, Bed Furniture, etc. cleansing
Chintz. - Printed or chintz curtains do not require to be unpicked or unlined for cleaning and glazing; but if they are to be friction-calendered, they must be unlined and taken apart in breadths. Lined furnitures, as sofa, chair, or ottoman covers, and hangings which have not been unpicked, must have a strong and good starch, which will require to be well worked into them. Unlined furnitures and linings, which are to be friction-calendered, will only require to be carefully passed through a thin starch; if, however, they are to be glazed, they will require the strong starch the same as the lined furniture. If dried before being starched, all kinds of furniture will take one-fourth less starch, and will also be much stiffer than if starched while wet. Furniture which is to be friction-calendered must, after starching, be wrung across the width, and the ends and edges well shaken out and pulled straight; and they should afterwards be hung up very straight by the ends.To clean the furniture: Dissolve a bar of soap in 4 gal. boiling water. Put 1½ gal. of this soap liquor into a vessel containing 4 pails of cold water. This is called the first liquor. Into another vessel put the same proportions of cold water and dissolved soap, for the second liquor; and put the remaining gallon of soap liquor into a third vessel containing 4 pails of cold water. This is the thin soap liquor. Put your furniture into the first soap liquor, and well rub and punch it; wring it out and put it into the second liquor, and well rub, punch, and turn it in this; then wring it out again and pass it into the third or thin liquor to finish, and give it a clean water directly after. Now well rinse it through 3 lots of moderately warm water to take out all the soap; and afterwards, starch by well working1 the starch all through it. When this has been done, well shake it and fold it neatly; when dry, send it to the calico glazers to be finished.
When the furniture is to be friction-calendered, first well punch the print in a tub of clean water, and while the print is draining, well punch the lining in the same water, and repeat this with a second tub of water. The furniture is then to be cleaned, rinsed, and starched, as above directed; excepting that the print is to be passed first through each soap liquor and rinsing water, and through the starch and the lining is to follow in the same order.
Damasks
Dissolve 6 lb. soap in 8 gal. boiling water; and in another vessel dissolve 3 lb. best pearlash in 2 gal. boiling water. First clean the curtains, one at a time, in two lots of clean water, well working them in each water; then fold them up smoothly, and put each curtain on a peg by itself to drain. Put 6 pails warm water into a tub, and into this put 2 qt. of the pearlash liquor and 2 gal. of the soap liquor. Put one of the curtains into this liquor, and well work it with the puncher for 10 minutes, then fold it up and put it on a peg to drain, and treat the other curtain exactly in the same manner. Now throw this liquor away, and make up a second lot with the same proportions as the first. Pass the curtains through this in the same manner as before, letting the one which was second be first this time. Put this liquor into another vessel and make up a third lot, and well work the curtains in this as before. Empty this liquor into the vessel containing the last, and mix another lot. Punch the curtains in this as before, one at a time, for 10 minutes, fold up and put on the pegs to drain, and they are ready for spiriting. Rinse your tub and put into it 12 pails of cold water, and into this stir ½ pint of oil of vitriol. Open your first curtain and well handle it in this spirit water for 10 minutes, then fold and hang up to drain. Stir another ¼ pint of oil of vitriol into this same water, and treat the second curtain in the same manner as the first. Now throw this spirit water away, well rinse the tub, and fill it with cold water. Rinse the first curtain in this, then throw away the water, refill the tub, and rinse the second curtain. Fold them up smoothly, drain them, and they are ready for drying. To dry these curtains properly they must be hung up in a warm room by the ends, the middle hanging down. This is of great importance and must be attended to, for if they are not dried straight, they cannot be re-made straight, and consequently will not hang again like new. After drying they are to be well shaken and picked out, and then sent to the pressers to be finished.The proportions and quantities here given are for a pair of curtains, each containing 20 sq. yd.
Worsted-and-Cotton Damasks are to be cleaned exactly in the manner described above, excepting that after being spirited and rinsed, and before being pressed, they must have a water starch to make them look strong and well when finished.
Silk Damasks. - Dissolve 2 lb. Feild's soft-soap in 2 gal. boiling water, and while it is getting cold get ready your silk-scouring brushes and scouring board. Have 3 vessels, each containing 6 pails of cold water for rinsing, and a fourth, containing the same quantity of water, into which sufficient oil of vitriol has been stirred to make it taste sour; also a kettle, containing 4 pails of water for a soap liquor. Put 1 qt. of the soft-soap liquor into a pail of cold water, dip one width of the damask into this, then put it on the scouring board, the wrong side up, pour some of the dissolved soap on it, and well brush with the silk-scouring brush. This must not occupy more than 5 minutes. Turn it and clean the right side quickly with the brush and more of the soft-soap. Now take it off the board and pass it through the first soap liquor, then through the thin liquor, the rinsing waters, and the spirit water; well handling it in the spirits for 2 minutes. Wring it, fold it up, and dry; arid so proceed for each width, the quantities here given being sufficient to clean about 10 sq. yd. After drying, they must be damped, brushed, and framed, and sent to the pressers to be finished.
Silk Damasks may also be cleaned with camphine, in the following manner: Well shake and brush the curtains, and take the widths apart. Have ready the camphine board, brushes, and sheets. Put 1 gal. camphine into an earthenware pan that will hold 4 gal. Put in a width of the damask, and handle it in the camphine until it is well soaked, which will be in about 2 minutes; then fold it up and lay it on a peg over the pan so as to catch the liquor which drains from it. Now put it on the scouring board, wrong side up, and brush it well; then turn up the right side, and do the same with it. Pass it again through the camphine, fold it up, squeeze out of it as much of the camphine as possible, and lay it on the peg over the pan. Now turn your board the wood side upwards, and put your sheets on it. Then sheet-up the width which you have just cleaned, using one sheet after the other until it is quite dry; then brush it well on both sides, and hang it up to air and take off the smell of the camphine. Each width of the curtain or furniture is to be treated in exactly the same manner as above. When dry they are ready for dressing.
Mix 1 teacupful of parchment size with 4 qt. cold water. Frame the damask, and carefully wet all over with this by means of a clean sponge, and dry immediately with the charcoal fire. Afterwards send them to the pressers to be finished. Some dyers and cleaners prefer damping, brushing, and calendering as a finish for this work; while others frame or roll it only. But this will all depend on the quality of the work and the dressing.
Rapidity of operation is of great importance in this method, for if the operator be a dawdler the work is sure to suffer. Each width, from the time it is put into the camphine until it is hung up to air, should not on any account take more than 15 minutes.
Silk-and- Worsted, or French Damasks
To clean a curtain, or other furniture containing about 10 sq. yd. Dissolve 3 lb. soap in 8 gal. boiling water; have ready 3 tubs, each containing 6 pails cold water, and into the first and second put 1 pail of the dissolved soap, and ½ pail into the third. Put into a large kettle, or other vessel, 6 pails cold water, and well stir into it ¼ teacup of oil of vitriol.Put the curtain into the first soap liquor, and well work it for 1 minute, then take it up by the selvage and wring it over the tub; put it back into the same liquor, and again well work it for a minute, and then well wring it on a peg over the tub. Now treat it in the same manner in the second liquor, then put it into the third or thin soap liquor, and when it has been well worked in this, handle it directly out of the soap into the spiriting, wring it out on a peg, put it back into the spirits, and again well handle it for about a minute, and then put it to drain. Throw away the first soap liquor, rinse the tub, and put into it 10 pails of cold water and ½ teacup of oil of vitriol. Well handle the curtain in this, wring it out, return it twice to the same liquor and then hang it on to the pegs to drain. Empty your tub and make up a second spirit water, with ¼ teacup of oil of vitriol in 12 pails of water, well work the curtain in this, and afterwards put it to drain. After it has drained well, dry it with clean sheets, and then hang it in a warm room to finish drying. When dry, damp, brush, and send to the pressers to be finished. The sheeting-up should be carefully performed, and must on no account be omitted, as the whole safety of the colours depends on this operation. Each curtain is to be cleaned in the same manner, and will take about 6 sheets to properly dry it; but with each fresh curtain the second soap liquor is to be used as the first, and a fresh lot mixed for the second liquor.
Moreens are to be cleaned, rinsed, and spirited, exactly as first described for damasks. When sent to the pressers, moreens may be finished in one of the four following ways, plain, watered, embossed, or with satin and watered stripes, the charge per yard being about the same for each method.
Tataret or Tabbarea cleansing
This may be cleaned and finished in the same manner as described for silk damasks, excepting that when it is sent to the pressers it is to be watered instead of hot-pressed board, brushes, and drying cloths all ready, and put ½ gal. camphine into each of 2 earthenware pans that will hold about 2 gal. each. Well shake and brush the curtains, take out the linings, and take them apart. Put one width into one of the pans of camphine; when it is quite soaked, take it out and lay it on your board, wrong side up, and well brush it with the camphine; turn it and treat the right side in the same manner. Now pass it again through the first liquor, and then through the second, letting it drain on a peg over the latter for a minute. When it has drained sufficiently, sheet it up, dry with the cotton or linen cloths, then brush it with a dry brush, and hang it up to air and take off the smell of the camphine. Each width is to be cleaned in the same manner, using fresh camphine as often as necessary. When all have been dried, put them for a few minutes between some damp sheets, then take them out, brush, and rub them, and send to the pressers to be watered.Satin cleansing
Have 2 clean stoneware pans that will hold about 2 gal. each, and into each pan put 2 qt. of camphine. Shake and well brush the curtains and take them apart. Put one width of the satin into one of the pans of camphine, let it well soak through, and then drain it on a peg over the pan for about a minute. Now put it on the board, the wrong side up, and well brush it with a soft brush, occasionally wetting the brush in the camphine. When the wrong side has been cleaned all over, turn the right side up, and clean it with the brush in the same manner; and after wards pass it through the first liquor, and then through the second, and well drain it. Now turn your board the plain side up, lay the width on it, and well dry with the cloths. After it is dry, brush it, first on the wrong side and then on the right side, with a dry brush, and then hang it up to air and take off the smell of the camphine. Each width is to be cleaned in the same manner, using clean camphine as often as required. Satins are generally finished in the frame in the manner described for silk damasks, and afterwards sent to the calender. Another very simple way is to slightly damp them between clean sheets, then brush them, and send to the pressers to be finished.Satin and flowered velvet may be cleaned dry by mixing a quantity of fine dry breadcrumbs with a little powdered blue, and rubbing this on with a piece of soft material or flannel. Shake, and clean off with a clean, soft cloth or brush. White goods may be treated in this way.
Satins may also be cleaned, dried, damped, brushed, framed, and finished, exactly as described for silk damasks.
Tammy Lining
- Dissolve 1 bar of soap in 4 gal. boiling water; have 3 vessels, each containing 2 gal. cold water. Into the first of these put 2 gal., into the second 1½ gal., and into the third 1 gal. of the dissolved soap. Tack the widths of lining together, end to end, and then put it into the first soap liquor, work it well in this, then put it into the second liquor, and again well work it. Now put it into the third liquor, handle it well in this, and afterwards put it on a clean peg to drain. Put 8 gal. cold water into a clean vessel, and stir into it one tablespoonful of oil of vitriol; handle the lining in this spirit water for 5 minutes, take it out, and rinse it in one lot of cold water for about a minute. Now dry it, and when dry have it re-glazed on the wrong side.
- Mix together the crumb of a stale loaf and a quart of silver sand, and damp the mixture with camphine. Put a dry width of the tammy on the scouring board, and well work this mixture into it, on both sides. Then shake it and brush it, and it is cleaned. Again damp the mixture of bread and sand with a little fresh camphine, and clean the next width in the same manner. And so proceed for any number of widths.
- Tammy lining may also be cleaned with camphine, in the manner directed for tabaret; but a flannel should be used to rub out the dirt instead of a brush.
Bullion Fringe and Worsted Fringe should be cleaned in the soap liquors, spirited, rinsed, and dried, exactly as directed for tammy lining. But if the fringe contains any spickets, that is, pieces of wood covered with silk, these must be taken off and cleaned with bread-crumbs and camphine, or, if necessary, sent to the fringe makers to be re-covered.
Silk curtains, when soiled, may be made to look as good as new by washing them in a liquid composed of ½ pint gin, 4 oz. soft-soap, 2 oz. strained honey, well mixed; spread the silk out on a table and apply the mixture with a sponge, rubbing thoroughly; then wash in soft water, into which there should be put 2 tablespoonfuls of ox-gall to 3 gal. of water, rinse the silk, but do not wring it; hang it out smooth to dry, and iron when damp.
Dresses cleansing
Silk. - Have two earthenware vessels that will hold about 2 gal. each, and put ½ gal. of camphine into each of them. Take the sleeves off the dress, and the body off the skirt. Clean the body first, next the sleeves, and the skirt last. Put the body to soak in the first liquor, and when it is well wetted, lay it on the board, and well brush it with the silk scouring brushes, first on the inside and afterwards on the outside. When this has been done, put it back into the first liquor, and then into the second, and let it drain on a peg over the latter for about a minute. Have a clean sheet spread out on the plain side of the board, take the body off the peg, and lay it smoothly on this, and well rub it, with clean India-cotton cloths, until quite dry. The sleeve and the skirt are to be cleaned and dried in exactly the same manner. Hang in a hot room to take off the smell of the camphine.This is a very quick and easy way to clean a silk dress. But if it should be very dirty it will be found to be much better to take it apart into widths, and to clean each width separately by either of the two following methods:
- Dissolve 2 lb. of soap in 2 gal. of boiling water, and use when cold. Have 4 pans, or other vessels, with 4 pails of cold water in each. Into one of these put a small quantity of the dissolved soap for a thin soap liquor, and in another dissolve ¼ lb. of tartaric acid for spiriting. The other two lots of water are for rinsing. Now begin and clean the dress as quickly as possible, for each width should not take more than 5 minutes from first to last, or it will probably be spoiled. Spread the width, wrong side upwards, on a clean scouring board which is rather longer and wider than a width of the dress. Pour over it sufficient of the dissolved soap to wet it thoroughly, and well brush it, lengthwise, with a soft brush; then turn it and treat the right side in the same way. When this has been done, pass it first through the thin soap liquor, then through the two rinsing waters, and afterwards well handle it in the spirit water, and then put it on a peg to drain. Now spread a clean, dry sheet on a dry board or table, lay on it the width which you have just cleaned, and well dry it with clean cloths, and afterwards brush it with a dry brush. When all the widths have been cleaned and dried they should be finished either in a silk-finishing frame or on a French board. Silks or satins should never be brushed across the widths, as doing so causes them to fray out, and spoils them for re-making.
- Have 2 clean earthenware pans, which will hold about 2 gal. each, and put ½ gal. of camphine into each. Take one breadth of the dress and dip it into the first lot of camphine, then spread it on the board, dip the brush into the camphine, and brush the width as above directed. When this has been done, put it again into the first liquor, then into the second, and let it drain for a minute over the latter. Be sure to squeeze out as much of the camphine as possible before passing the width from one liquor to the other. Spread a clean sheet on the board, lay the breadth of silk on it, and dry thoroughly. And so proceed for any number of widths. Hang in a hot room to take off the smell of the camphine. Finish either in the frame or on the French board.
Irish Poplins and Tabincts are to be cleaned with camphine, in the manner directed for Tabaret curtains.
Lama cleansing
Boil 1 lb. of the best rice in 1 gal. water for 3 hours, and when done pour off into a basin a sufficient quantity to starch the dress. When the remainder is partially cold, well wash the dress with it, without using any soap, and rinse in cold water. Wring it well, and starch it with the rice water put by for the purpose, and dry quickly before the fire. When sufficiently dry, it is ironed with a cool iron, as it is very liable to scorch, use a wet cloth to damp the parts which may have become too dry for ironing. These dresses must on no account be allowed to lie damp, even for an hour, or they will be spoiled, as the colours are sure to run.Alpacas, Printed Muslins, or Piques may also be cleaned by this method, for if the operation be performed with care and dispatch, it will be found not to injure the most delicate colours.
Piques and Coloured Muslins cleansing
French method: Make a strong lather with best white soap dissolved in soft water, and use while rather warm, but not hot. Wash the dress in this, but do not soak it previously. As soon as the lather appears soiled, squeeze out the dress, throw away the lather, and wash the dress again in a second lot, and so continue until the dress is thoroughly clean. Then well rinse it in cold water, and afterwards in cold water slightly blued. Squeeze all the water out of the dress, but do not wring it, and hang in a shady place to dry; or, if the weather be wet, dry it before the fire. When dry, they are to be starched. It is in this operation that the failures in getting up muslins and piques more often occur than in the washing. Use a large basin and have plenty of starch, and dissolve in the starch, according to the quantity of it, 3 or 4 in. of composite or wax candle. Squeeze the starch well out of the dress, and while it is still wet put it between some old sheets or tablecloths, and pass it between the rollers of a wringing machine or under a mangle; by this means all lumps of starch will be removed. Finish by ironing. Piques should be ironed on the wrong' side, as lightly as possible.Flannel cleansing
- To prevent shrinking in washing, soak the flannel for a night in cold water when dirty, and the next morning wash with curd soap in very lukewarm water. Don't wring, but press the water out and hang to dry.
- Cleaning white flannel. Use pipeclay, which should be mixed to proper consistency in a pipkin; stand on the fire till warm, stir with wax candle for 5 minutes, add a modicum of soap and a dash of Prussian blue, and stand by to cool, and always use cold, laid on with a sponge, and dry in shady breeze. For grease spots, lay over them pure clay, size the thickness of a crown piece, then place in the sun, and the clay will absorb all the grease without fail. When trousers are dry, rub them to loosen the clay, which brush off, and you will have cleaner looking trousers than by washing, and they will be fit to wear two or three times without pipeclaying. The same for flannel jackets.
Hearth-rugs cleansing
Hearth-rugs should never be cleaned on the floor, but on a large scouring board, and should only be operated upon 1/6 of their length at a time. After being cleaned, they require to be dried very quickly; as otherwise, on account of the thickness of the pile, they are apt to sadden.Hearth-rugs may be cleaned by either the first or second methods given for dry-cleaning carpets; with the following exception, that when the first method is adopted, only 1 lb. of soap dissolved in 1 gal. of hot water will be required. After the rug is finished, dip a clean sponge into a pail containing a little common sour, and well rub it into the face of the rug.
Lace cleansing
Cover an ordinary wine bottle with fine flannel, stitching it firmly round the bottle. Tack one end of the lace to the flannel, then roll it very smoothly round the bottle, and tack down the other end, then cover with a piece of very fine flannel or muslin. Now rub it gently with a strong soap liquor, and, if the lace is very much discoloured or dirty, fill the bottle with hot water, and place it in a kettle or saucepan of suds and boil it for a few minutes, then place the bottle under a tap of running water to rinse out the soap. Make some strong starch, and melt in it a piece of white wax and a little loaf-sugar. Plunge the bottle 2 or 3 times into this and squeeze out the superfluous starch with the hands; then dip the bottle in cold water, remove the outer covering from the lace, fill the bottle with hot water, and stand it in the sun to dry the lace. When nearly dry take it very carefully off the bottle, and pick it out with the fingers. Then lay it in a cool place to dry thoroughly.Shawls and Scarves cleansing
China Crape, Brocaded or Printed Silk. - They may be cleaned by either of the methods, and in the same manner, as directed for silk dresses.Woollen cleansing
. - Scotch method: Scrape; or cut up 1 lb. of soap, and boil it in a small quantity of water. When sufficiently cool, beat it to a jelly with the hand, at the same time mixing with it 3 tablespoonfuls of spirits of turpentine, and 1 of spirits of harts-horn. Wash the shawl thoroughly in this, then well rinse in cold water, and, when all the soap is out, in salt and water. This last need only be done when the shawl contains delicate colours. Then fold the shawl between two sheets, being careful not to let two folds of the shawl come together. Mangle, and afterwards iron with a very cool iron.Sheepskin Rugs and Mats cleansing
Dissolve 1 bar soap in 2 gal. boiling water. Put 2 qt. of this into a tub or pan containing about 2 gal. warm water. First rub out the dirt and grease spots with the strong soap liquor, or, if necessary, with fullers' earth. Then put the rug or mat into the tub containing the weak soap liquor, and well wash and punch it. Throw away this first liquor, and mix another lot with the same proportions of warm water and dissolved soap, and again well wash the rug; and so continue until it is perfectly clean. Then rinse well in cold water to take out all the soap, and afterwards in cold water in which a small quantity of blue has been dissolved. This blue water will only be required for white skins. After this has been done, the mat or rug should be wrung out, shaken, and hung to dry with the skin side towards the sun, but not when the heat is scorching, or the skin will become hard and brittle. It should, while drying, be frequently shaken and hung up first by one end and then by the other.Silk Handkerchiefs, Ribbons, Mantles, and Fancy Waistcoats cleansing
Have 2 large earthenware pans, and put 2 qt. of camphine into each pan. Dip the article, whatever it may be, into the first liquor of camphine, well handle it in this, and repeat the operation in the second liquor. Then drain; have a dry sheet on your board, lay the article on it, and dry well with fine cloths. Finish by ironing with a box iron.Table Covers cleansing
Dissolve 1 bar of soap in 4 gal. boiling water, and mix with it 1 lb. pearlash. Have 3 earthenware pans or tubs that will hold about 8 gal. each: into the first of these put 3 gal. of the dissolved soap and 1 pail cold water; into the second, 2 gal. soap and 1 pail water; and into the third, 2 pails water and 1 gal. dissolved soap. Well work the cover in each of these 3 soap liquors, beginning with the strongest, and wring it between each. Stir 1 tablespoonful of oil of vitriol into a tub containing 6 pails cold water. Handle the cover in this spirit water for 5 minutes, then take it out and rinse it in one lot of cold water; this is the proper method for cotton- and-worsted or printed cloth covers. Table covers made with a mixture of silk and worsted, instead of being spirited after cleaning, should be well worked in a pan containing 2 pails cold waiter, in which 1 lb. common salt has been dissolved, and afterwards rinsed through 2 lots of cold water. Dry quickly; then shake, brush, and finish by ironing with a box iron, or send to the pressers to be finished.Starch Gloss' and Stiffener cleansing
1½ oz. powdered spermaceti, ¾ oz. powdered gum arabic, 2 oz. powdered white starch, 1 oz. powdered borax. Powder spermaceti finely by aid of a little spirit of wine, add powdered starch and powdered gum, pass through a sieve and mix thoroughly with the powdered borax.Directions for Use. - A teaspoonful to be added to each ¼ lb. of starch used, either hot or cold. (6) 30 oz. distilled soft water, 5 oz. pure glycerine, 2 oz. gum arabic, 2 oz. spermaceti, 3½ oz. borax powder.
Straw Matting. (1) Wash with weak salt and water and dry well. (2) Boil a small bag of bran in 2 gal. of water, wash with this and dry well.
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