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aquarium, repairing leaks
Значение термина aquarium, repairing leaks в knolik
aquarium, repairing leaks - aquarium, Repairing leaks
aquarium, repairing leaks - Leakiness is a fault inseparable from all wood-built aquaria. If you remove the zinc covering the bottom, you will find water underneath, which slowly percolates, and very often travels along until it meets the groove in which the glass is set, where it make its unwelcome appearance. I doubt very much if it be possible to build a permanently tight aquarium if the same is framed in wood. By chance one might succeed. The wooden bottom contracts, and opens some minute joint in the cement. Under the pressure of the water the moisture creeps in, and the wood then swells, opening wider the cracks. Then there is another fertile source of leakage, due to the water pressure forcing the glass sides outwards, and causing the cement to separate. The oftener the aquarium is emptied the worse the fault grows, and it is almost incurable. What is wanted for wood-framed aquaria is an elastic cement (marine glue useless), and it has to be found yet. I think the best all-round cement consists of equal bulks of litharge and pulverised rosin - no sand - mixed into a thin paste with boiled linseed oil and applied at once. To make the flat bottom watertight, marine glue of good quality may be used in this instance. When the wood is quite dry saturate it with a thin solution of the glue, afterwards breaking up the glue into small pieces, sprinkling them thickly over the bottom, and ironing out with a hot iron. While still soft, completely cover with a layer of small gravel (shore), and press into the glue with the iron. A dusting of sand will complete the job. Of course, dig out all the cement in the glass grooves, and fill them again with the composition given above. The depth of the grooves should be twice the thickness of the glass, assuming ¼ in. plate to have been used, and the width the same. The groove is part-filled with the cement, the glass slid in, and pressed outwardly by small blocks of hard wood pushed in the grooves. This prevents springing of the glass when the level of the water is at any time reduced. Fill the inner groove level with the aquarium floor, and if the job has been properly done very little water will find its way through. Undoubtedly all aquaria should be built entirely of slate, and though in saying so I advocate what I have never practised, all my large 80-gall. sea-water tanks being built of baywood, I am fully alive to the fact that I might have saved myself much trouble. Slate aquaria are, of course, much more costly, to begin with, than those constructed of wood, and economy is very frequently a determinative factor in the case. Use the dryest baywood obtainable, make the bottom two-ply, crossing the grain, and screw together with brass screws. But this concerns the building of aquaria, and not the stopping of leaks. (' English Mechanic.')
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